October is a busy month for gardeners in Northern Nevada. Harvesting is continuing or just starting for crops such as potatoes, pumpkins, winter squash and apples. Cold crops such as spinach, kale, cabbage, radishes, peas, lettuce, and broccoli are being enjoyed fresh from the garden once again. We encourage fall planting of trees and shrubs because while the nights are cooler and the days are shorter, the soil and water temperatures are still warm. The newly planted roots have a chance to spread out and grow and acclimate to their new surroundings before spring comes and growth demands are put on the plant material. In Northern Nevada fall is the time to plant garlic. David feels that the hard-neck varieties do better here. We stock the following varieties: California, German Red and Spanish Roja. Garlic needs a cold spell at the start of the growing period, and some wet weather when it starts to develop leaves. Then plan to harvest it the following summer. If garlic is planted in the spring, garlic cloves will not be very large. Water is still essential; apply 2-4 times this month, depending on the weather. Finally, fall cleanup starts this month. Compost garden debris and leaves. Plan to amend around existing plants, shrubs, garden areas and lawns with an organic soil amendment such as Bumper Crop or Paydirt. Happy Gardening!

Perhaps one of nature's greatest miracles is the flower bulb. It goes into the ground as a crusty brown bulb, and over the course of four to five months bursts through the soil and becomes a plant full of beautiful blooming flowers. And who doesn’t love to see daffodils or tulips and other flower bulbs in their full blooming glory? For many of us, it’s the first sign that spring has finally arrived.

Tulips, crocus and daffodils are the traditional standby bulbs. But for those that like the unusual, there are many spectacular varieties to choose from. They can be layered in containers or in your flower bed so that the colors just keep popping up. It’s best to consider how many layers (or rows) you want to plant and work from low bulbs in the front of your planting bed (or outside edge of container) and then gradually increase the height towards the back of the bed (or inside of the container).

Two spring blooming bulbs that perform better on their own are Bearded Iris and Amaryllis bulbs. Bearded Iris re-produce themselves and spread out over time so give them lots of room. The giant Dutch Amaryllis perform better forced indoors in containers where their beauty can be enjoyed without venturing outside.

So don't be disappointed when your neighbors have beautiful flower bulbs popping up in their gardens next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall to see the treasure of their blooms in spring.

Autumn is a good time to prepare your lawn for the year ahead, and the best time to tackle any long-term improvements. Tasks such as raking out lawn debris, eradicating moss, feeding, and aerating will improve the quality of your lawn greatly if carried out on a yearly basis.

Under some conditions, grass clippings and debris can form a thick "thatch" on the surface of your lawn. This affects growth of the grass and should be removed with a lawn rake. Raking also removes moss.

If grass growth is poor, aerate the lawn. We recommend using a powered aerator that actually pulls plugs of grass and thatch out of the lawn. These can be rented locally or call us here at 882-8600 and we can arrange to come out and do that for you. Brush gypsum into the holes in areas of clay or poor drainage. Alternatively, in sandy areas rake in Paydirt or Bumper Crop. October is a little late here for reseeding; however, sodding or patching with sod is fine.

Apply Greenall Fall and Winter Lawn Food or for an organic choice consider Gardner & Bloome Lawn Fertilizer. Mow your lawn short prior to this final application of fertilizer and before aerating your lawn. Because of the alkali nature of our soil and water we recommend that in addition to fertilizing apply Dr. Iron or FST (both iron/sulfur compounds) in the Fall. Remember that water is still essential in October. At the beginning of the month still water once a week. By the end of the month if the night time temperature is consistently below 27 degrees, the irrigation system should be winterized to prevent freeze damage.

With the onset of the lovely cools of September and October, and the practiced hand of the summer gardener, it is the perfect time for perennial division. By rights, we should be doing this twice a year; plants that flower in the spring and early summer should be divided in the fall, and plants that flower in summer and fall should be divided in the early spring. Dividing our perennials not only provides multiple new plants, it benefits the plant by increasing the root strength, thus producing more blooms, as the division in essence creates multiple young plants with room to spread. In fact, when you see one of your plants growing into the space allotted for another plant, that is an indication that the former needs to be divided. It is best to divide prior to a plant's showing signs of needing it; when it looks its best, the end of that year is the optimum time to divide. If the center of the plant has grown weakly leggy, and sports fewer flowers and smaller leaves, it is definitely time to rejuvenate and divide!

We begin with digging up the plant. Angle your spade or shovel at a 45 degree angle at the drip line, and cut down and under the clump from various points around the outer edge until you are able to lift the plant out of the hole. Digging this far out from the center of the plant ensures that you will be lifting with most of the roots intact. Wash the extraneous soil from the roots for easy determination as to where to divide. Remove any sections that look dead, damaged or diseased, and trim back to healthy white tissue. Eroded crowns and discolored stems should be discarded. If you plan on giving away some of the divided plants, have containers with fresh, amended soil at hand. It is best to have surveyed your garden and pre-determined where the new plants will go, keeping in mind that each garden denizen will grow, thus is in need of plenty of spacing between plants. If you haven’t the time to complete the project all at once, put the divisions that you haven't yet re-planted in a bucket, cover with a wet newspaper, and store in a cool place such as the garage. If, while on hold, the divisions dry out, soak in full water for about an hour and then get them into the earth! Any earth in your garden that used to contain the removed plant should be filled with fresh amended soil so that its new occupants will enjoy good drainage and air circulation.

We recommend Bumper Crop or Black Forest Compost in sandy areas and Paydirt in clay areas.

There are several different ways to divide, depending on the type of root system. These can be divided into five different kinds: roots that form clumps (or offsets, which are small plants growing at the base of a larger plant), surface roots, underground running roots, taproots, and woody roots. When dividing the first of these, the clump or offset root system, snap the connection between any of the sections to obtain a piece with ample roots and three or more growing “eyes.” Denser clumps may be cut apart. Surface roots are those that run just below the soil line, and form new crowns when they reach an open space and then make contact once again with the soil. To divide these, simply cut between any of the stems with a sharp pruner, or a sharp knife. Plants with taproots should be divided with a sharp knife; make a slice down the length of the root, maintaining at least one eye, some taproot, and some side roots. For a perennial with underground running roots, dig up the primary plant and cut away any eyes or sucker that may be forming. And finally, perennials with woody roots often form new roots when stems rest on the ground, or are covered with much. Simply cut between the rooted stem and the mother plant.

Remember to place all new divisions into holes at least as wide as the root base is when spread out; gravity works in the plant’s behalf by sending chemicals flowing downward from the tips of leafy stems to the roots.

And now you can feel good about having brought health to your loyal perennials, and increasing your garden stock!

Just the word "bedbugs" can send a sane person into hysteria. In the last few weeks these bugs have made it onto the national news, local news, the local newspapers and even talk radio. In our area we have been fortunate to have escaped the overall infestation that many other areas in the country are experiencing but there have been three reported cases in Reno this year. Avoid the cost of having professional exterminators come to your house. If you have holiday travel plans we recommend that you spray your luggage with JT Eaton Kills Bedbugs ll prior to traveling anywhere. This product keeps killing up 16 weeks after the initial application. We have it here at Greenhouse Garden Center.

What's the difference between a daffodil and a narcissus?

Answer:

There is no difference. The two words are synonyms. Narcissus is the botanical name for daffodils, just as ilex is for hollies.

Daffodil is the common name for all members of the genus Narcissus, and its use is recommended by the American Daffodil Society at all times other than in scientific writing.

In some parts of the country, any yellow daffodil is called a jonquil, usually incorrectly. As a rule, but not always, jonquil species and hybrids are characterized by several yellow flowers, strong scent, and rounded foliage.

But who really cares? They are all lovely flowers--and we say, "Call them whatever makes you happy!"

1. Fertilize the lawn with Greenall Fall And Winter Lawn Food or for an organic choice choose Garden and Bloome Lawn Fertilizer. Give your trees, shrubs, and flowers a good feeding with Master Nursery 16-16-16.
2. Now is the time to dig potatoes and gladiolas. Clean out frozen annuals from the flower, vegetable and water gardens.
3. Bulbs can still be planted and the selection is still great. Don't put planting off too long, though. The bulbs won't be damaged by the cold, but your knees and hands might.
4. Water is essential in the month of October. At the beginning of the month water once a week. By the end of the month, watch the night time temperatures. When the temperatures at night is consistently below 27 degrees winterize the irrigation system to avoid freeze damage.
5. Add sulfur and iron to garden, lawn, shrub and perennial areas in the form of Dr. Iron or FST to help lower your pH over the winter. Applying in the fall causes less burning than a spring or summer application.
6. Spray broad-leafed evergreens such as rhododendrons, Oregon grape, pieris and euonymus with Wilt Pruf this and every winter month to help combat moisture loss through the leaves.
7. Try composting! Make sure that you add water and Dr. Earth Compost Starter. Don't compost diseased plant material. Check out the Composters here at the nursery.
8. Freeze Pruf vegetables and annual color to extend the season. This product may protect plant material from frost damage or death when the temperature falls below freezing up to 9 degrees.
9. Drop hardy water plants to the bottom of your pond to give them some winter protection. Discard annual pond plants, clean the filter, and skim the pond often. Leaves from maple trees, especially, should never be allowed to slowly decompose in a pond.
10. Fall Color is ablaze throughout the Garden Center! With our climate we experience some great colors on trees, shrubs, and perennials. Stop in several times and be amazed.